Tepic and Xalisco: a journey through flavors, history and nature
Not long ago, I decided to take a few days to slowly explore Tepic and Xalisco Nayarit, two destinations in the heart of the state that blend unique flavors, living history and stunning nature.
What began as a quick getaway turned into a trip full of memorable moments, amazing food, deep culture and landscapes that still remain in my mind like vivid postcards.
Breakfast at El Piloncillo: tradition with a gourmet twist
My trip began in downtown Tepic, where the bustle of the city mixes with colonial architecture and the aroma of coffee. My first stop was El Piloncillo, a restaurant located on one of the most picturesque streets in the center.
I sat by a window and ordered two things: green chilaquiles with arrachera and a Croque Madame. Yes, it sounds like a lot for breakfast…but trust me, it was worth it. The chilaquiles had just the right balance between spicy and creamy, with tender arrachera that melted in my mouth. The Croque Madame was another story: golden brioche bread, béchamel sauce, ham, gouda and mozzarella cheese, crispy bacon and a fried egg on top. It all came with a fresh salad and fries. A hearty and delicious breakfast, perfect to recharge before exploring the city.
Tip:
Arrive early, it’s very popular among locals. Ask about seasonal drinks.
Tepic’s Historic Center: living history among poetry, plazas and towers
After breakfast at El Piloncillo, I began walking through Tepic’s Historic Center, a place that preserves the soul of an old city while remaining vibrant. Streets are filled with colonial and Porfirian architecture, with balconies, arches and details that make you stop and admire. The first thing I noticed was the calm: instead of traffic noise, you hear the rustling trees at Plaza de Armas, the heart of the city.
Facing this plaza stand some of the most important buildings: the City Hall, originally a 19th-century prison, still conserves its sober and elegant facade. Nearby, I visited museums like the Amado Nervo House Museum, birthplace of the great Nayarit poet, and the Emilia Ortiz Contemporary Art Center inside the beautiful Casa Aguirre, a mansion that is itself a work of art. Tepic has truly turned its historic center into a cultural corridor without losing its traditional charm.
Amado Nervo Museum
My first stop was the Amado Nervo Museum, inside the poet’s birthplace. I really enjoyed how they’ve preserved his personal belongings, manuscripts and period furniture. Each room transports you to the era in which he lived, and it’s easy to connect with his words as you walk through the house.
Emilia Ortiz Contemporary Art Center
Just a few blocks away is the Emilia Ortiz Contemporary Art Center, housed in the stunning Casa Aguirre. Here, art speaks with history: I saw works by Emilia Ortiz, an impressive Nayarit artist, alongside contemporary exhibitions that reflect the state’s current art scene. They also offer open workshops in ceramics and printmaking. A must-visit for art lovers.
Cultural tip:
Check for temporary activities or workshops when you go — the space is always alive.
Nature, history and gastronomy at La Montaña Natural Park
Leaving Tepic, I drove towards Xalisco, a municipality right next to the city that instantly takes you out of the urban rhythm. My destination was La Montaña Natural Park, a place I had long wanted to visit.
The entrance is modest, surrounded by vegetation, but as you go in, the air becomes fresher and the landscape fills with pine trees. I joined a guided tour of an old mine, where they shared stories of the area’s mining history. Then we walked to an opal river that looked straight out of a movie: crystal-clear waters reflecting shades of green and blue depending on the sunlight.
A meal full of tradition
After the tour, it was time for the highlight: lunch. I tried several regional dishes — roasted quail, lamb chop, traditional tasajo and shrimp al ajillo that I still crave. Everything was paired with a refreshing passion fruit drink.
As the afternoon came, I took a dip in natural spring pools, the perfect end to the day. Even better, I stayed overnight in one of the rustic cabins surrounded by trees — I hadn’t slept that well in a long time.
Tip:
Bring swimsuit, towel and repellent. Cabins must be booked in advance, especially on weekends.
Breakfast at Casa 164: energy with great coffee and local warmth
Before starting one of the most intense parts of the trip, I recharged at Casa 164, a charming spot in Tepic. The atmosphere is relaxed, with cozy decor and a menu perfect to start the day. I ordered a light but nourishing breakfast, with excellent coffee that woke me up completely.
It’s one of those places where time slows down and service makes you feel at home. Definitely one of my favorites for a peaceful morning.
Tip:
If you’re in a rush, they have takeout options, but it’s worth sitting down and enjoying the place.
San Juan – La Noria route: hiking with mountain views
The path is demanding but beautiful. It starts with trails surrounded by tall trees and gradually climbs until suddenly you get a panoramic view of the Sierra de San Juan. Breathing fresh air at that altitude changes your mood completely. This hike is for experienced trekkers and one of the most challenging trails I’ve ever done.
I reached La Noria, a small village hidden in the mountains, and then descended back to Tepic. It was tough, but revitalizing.
Advice:
Wear good shoes, bring water and snacks, and start early. Weather can change quickly in the mountains, so go with a tour guide.
Ending with flavor at La Picuda
To close the trip, I went to one of Tepic’s most recommended restaurants: La Picuda. I had heard a lot about its signature seafood cuisine, but it exceeded my expectations.
I tried totoaba for the first time, a tender fish prepared in a way that enhanced its flavor. Then a soft-shell crab sope that felt like a small treasure from the Pacific. I also had Japanese-style oysters and a ceviche called Por Nayarit, made with dried shrimp, coconut and a citrus touch — the perfect finale.
Gourmet tip:
Ideal to go with friends or a partner and share several plates. Each dish tells a story.
Would I go back to Tepic and Xalisco, Nayarit? Absolutely
This trip was short but immensely enriching. Tepic and Xalisco offer the perfect mix of gastronomy, culture and breathtaking nature. I left with the feeling of having discovered places that still preserve their essence, where people welcome you warmly and surprises await at every step.
If you’re looking for a complete experience — from great coffee to a mountain sunset — this journey through the heart of Nayarit will captivate you as much as it did me.
By Charlie travels
