Two Giants of Nayarit: My Adventure on the Sangangüey and Ceboruco Volcanoes
Day 1
My day began at Hotel Real de Don Juan, a landmark accommodation in Tepic that combines comfort, elegance, and a strategic location. Situated right in the city center, this hotel is ideal for both business trips and for those who wish to explore the capital of Nayarit at their own pace.
Its modern rooms, friendly staff, and full services —including a restaurant, gym, and pool— make you feel right at home from the very first moment.
Breakfast in the heart of Tepic
After a restful night, I headed to Casa 164, a cozy café just a few steps from Tepic’s historic downtown. This place is perfect to start the day: its warm ambiance, vintage decor details, and carefully curated menu offer a truly special morning experience.
The aroma of freshly brewed coffee and the breakfast options —ranging from artisanal pastries to more elaborate dishes— make Casa 164 a must for those looking to enjoy local flavors with a modern twist.
Sangangüey: Where the sky meets the earth
My journey began early, just as the sun was rising on the horizon. Sangangüey stood tall before me (2,340 MASL), covered in thick vegetation and a mist that gave it a mystical air. I began the hike with excitement and a bit of nervousness. The trail was challenging: roots like hands reaching out to grab me, slippery stones, and sections where sunlight barely filtered through the trees.
After almost four hours of climbing, I reached the summit. I was exhausted, but the moment I looked up, all the fatigue vanished. Before me, Nayarit stretched out like a living painting: green valleys, patches of fog moving like low clouds, and a deep silence broken only by the wind.
What to bring for camping?
Difficulty
Ascent time
Tip
As the afternoon faded and the sky turned orange, we set up camp on a plateau near the summit. That night was special. We shared a simple dinner —tortillas, tuna, bread, and coffee still warm from the thermos— and sat to watch the sky.
The stars began to appear one by one. With no light pollution, they looked like never before: sharp, infinite, some shooting across the sky. I felt small, yet completely present.
I slept lightly, lulled by the whisper of the wind and the memory of the stars etched in my mind.
The next morning, I climbed again to a higher point on the summit. The sunrise was overwhelming. From there, Nayarit looked like a living map, golden in the sunlight. I took a deep breath. Rarely had I felt so free.
Day 2
Ceboruco: Fire beneath the skin of the earth
A well-deserved breakfast at the foot of the volcano
With my legs still sore, I made my way to Ceboruco Volcano, in the municipality of Jala. Before beginning the climb, I stopped at a nearby town called Coapán, a small farming village with genuine hospitality. There, I had breakfast at a recommended spot: El Rincón del Campesino.
The smell of freshly brewed coffee welcomed me, and soon came a dish I still crave: tasajo, tender and smoky, served with pot beans, molcajete salsa, and handmade tortillas. That breakfast didn’t just fill my stomach; it gave me a breath of Nayarit’s identity.
Volcanic art: Between fire and artisan hands
Before climbing the volcano, I made an unexpected but fascinating stop: a volcanic stone workshop nearby, where local artisans transform nature’s strength into art. Watching them turn what was once burning lava into everything from kitchen tools to decorative pieces was a deeply human and creative experience. The textures, the dark grays, and the skill they display in working such a demanding material are a tribute to the connection between people and volcanoes.
If you’re looking for a journey that blends adventure, wild nature, traditional food, and unforgettable moments… Nayarit is waiting for you.
Climbing the Tonán
Ceboruco has a different personality. As I climbed, the weather and landscape shifted with every stretch.
At first, it was humid and lush. Then, the air turned dry and cool, with short trees and a growing sense of altitude. Finally, near the summit, the earth became rough and gray, with fumaroles emerging from the ground, reminding me that this giant still breathes.
I walked to the crater —a place that seemed from another world. Silence, black rocks, sulfur in the air, and a horizon that felt endless. I stayed there for a while, alone, contemplating the energy held beneath my feet.
Nayarit from above
Then came the climax of the journey: I went paragliding from one of Ceboruco’s slopes. The wind was strong but steady. In the air, floating above this sleeping volcano, I felt a mix of vertigo, peace, and a joy I’ve rarely experienced. It was as if the whole world had paused for me. From above, the view of the Jala Valley was breathtaking, with its fields of corn and agave. If you have a drone, this is the perfect spot for aerial shots!
What to bring for camping?
Difficulty
Ascent time
Main attraction
A magical ending in Jala
On the way back, to top off the day, I joined a callejoneada in the town of Jala. As night fell, the dim glow of lanterns guided our way through cobblestone streets, accompanied by brass band music and collective joy.
It felt like being inside a movie: people dancing, singing, celebrating life and their roots. A living tradition that connects generations and visitors in an authentic festivity. I couldn’t help but smile every step of the way. Jala, without a doubt, knows how to welcome its guests.
The mountain transforms you
you
Coming back from this trip wasn’t simply returning home. It was returning changed.
Climbing Sangangüey taught me to value silence and the connection to what truly matters. Flying over Ceboruco reminded me that dreams aren’t just reached —sometimes, they soar.
Both volcanoes spoke to me in their own way: one with stars and silence, the other with wind and inner fire.
And I, fortunately, was there to listen.
By Charlie travels
