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The lagoon that changes colour

The lagoon that changes colour

A magical getaway to Santa María del Oro, Nayarit

Day 1 – On the way to the break

Leaving Tepic for Santa María del Oro is like putting a pause to the noise and a play to the rest. Just take the highway between gentle mountains and green fields, where the vegetation changes as you go along. In just 40 minutes, the urban landscape is transformed into a postcard of tranquillity.

A stop not to be missed: El Borrego

Before arriving at the destination, I made a strategic stop at the restaurant El Borrego, a classic on the road. The aroma of freshly served birria envelops you before you even sit down. The grilled lamb – golden, juicy, with that smoky touch that stays in your memory – was the first great success of the trip. Eating there is like receiving a northern hug in the form of a dish.

Consomé de birria: Ideal to warm the body in the cool mornings. Tatemada de cerdo: Wood-smoked meats served with handmade tortillas. Tip: Open from 8:00 am. If you go on a weekend, arrive early to avoid queues.

Village with soul and essence

Then I continued on to the town of Santa María del Oro. Quiet streets, adobe houses with red tiles, ladies chatting on the pavements and little shops with hand-painted signs. Time seems to float more slowly between trees and a light morning mist. And then she appears: the lagoon. The church of Santa María: A 19th century jewel with a yellow façade and pink quarry stone details. The central kiosk: Where the locals gather in the afternoons to eat carafe ice cream.

Encounter with the lagoon

After descending the winding road to the lagoon I finally felt that my trip had been worthwhile, the lagoon with its imposing presence delighted my eyes. Embedded in the crater of an extinct volcano, the lagoon changes colour according to the weather thanks to the micro-organisms that live in it. That morning it glowed a deep emerald green, as if nature itself had painted it with a fine brush.

Emerald green (in spring)

Cobalt blue (in the dry season)

Bright turquoise (on hot sunny days)

Relax in style: Hotel Chi’l Jaj

I stayed at Hotel Chi’l Jaj, a new place that combines contemporary design with local materials, swimming pool, restaurant, lagoon club and all the amenities this place has to offer. From the room, the view of the lagoon looked like a moving painting. I dropped my backpack, put on my sunglasses and went straight into the water.

Rowing to disconnect

I took the kayak and then the paddle board. Thanks to Samao adventures I glided across the smooth surface as the sun played with the reflections of the water. With each paddle, the stress was gone and peace took its place. The lagoon doesn’t just look beautiful: you can feel it, and the cool water in which you can swim, not to mention the coolness of the water.

Rent kayaks ($200 MXN/hour)

Take paddle boarding lessons ($350 MXN with instructor)

Take a boat trip to discover the secret corners of the lagoon ($150 MXN

per person)

Flavour by the lagoon: Restaurant El Desagüe

For lunch, I followed a local recommendation and according to him, the best place to eat the lagoon’s most emblematic dish is El Desagüe, right where the water meets the outlet. The chicharrón de pescado was a delight: crispy, golden and juicy, accompanied by freshly made tortillas. Eating with a view of the lagoon and a breeze in your face has a different flavour, time stands still for a moment and it reminds me of that taste from when I used to eat at home.

Day 2 – Adventure in the mountains

With my batteries recharged, I wanted to give the trip an adrenaline twist. I drove about 20 minutes to Real de Acuitapilco, home of Arcadia Park Adventure. There, surrounded by towering trees and ravines, I experienced the thrill of rappelling, climbing and zip lines that cross like threads through nature. Vertigo shakes you, but when you look down you see a green valley that reconciles you with the height. And to recover energy, nothing like a good aguachile of the house: fresh, spicy, ideal to close the day’s adventure.

Recommendations:

Tyrolean traverse over the canyon

Hanging bridges through the trees

Rappel down natural waterfalls

Recommendations: Wear closed shoes with good traction and clothes that can get wet.

get wet

Perfect farewell: Nace del Mar Restaurant

To end the trip on a high note, I booked a table at the Nace del Mar restaurant, just as the sun was beginning to set. I ordered the dish ‘4 Mares’, a generous mix of seafood Nayarit-style. While the sky was painted orange, pink and purple, the lagoon reflected the colours of the sunset like a living mirror.

Santa María del Oro is not just a lagoon that changes colour. It’s a place that transforms your senses, that gets into your memories and makes you promise to come back.

By Charlie travels